Oregon Mountain Community

Goin’ Down – “Dry” down sleeping bags reviewed


Ever since falling into a New Zealand river, with my climbing pack on, and spending the ensuing night shivering in a wet down sleeping bag, I’ve been wary of both raging river wades and down sleeping bags. Down is an excellent  natural insulation that comes from the under plumage of ducks and geese. Since Eddie Bauer patented the first down jacket in 1940, it’s been the insulator of choice for outdoor enthusiasts around the world. Down insulation, having stood the test of time, can’t be matched by synthetic insulation in terms of weight, warmth, comfort, and durability. But, there’s a catch. Down loses all of its insulating properties when wet.

Enter hydrophobic down. Read more ›

Posted in Gear Guides, Guides

Water Treatment Plans


On a recent trip down Oregon’s Grand Ronde river I used a MSR AutoFlow Gravity filter to treat river water for a rafting crew of 12 people.  As “impure” water, from the red 3 liter bag, drained through the filter tube, into my 5 gallon jugs, I played cards by the riverside.  It is about as easy a job as you can have around camp.  This isn’t the case with a pump-style filter, and for a large group, pumping water takes time, concentration and elbow grease.  For two people, pumping water isn’t too bad but river trips aren’t too weight sensitive so I pack the gravity system all the time.

When choosing a water treatment system it’s good to consider activities, and your group size.  If you’re traveling to a Third world country, a SteriPEN or iodine tabs are compact and kill viruses, along with all the usual bugs.  If you’re treating water with a lot of silt, straining the water through a coffee filter or bandana first, will help.  Sometimes just boiling water is the best and cheapest treatment. Read more ›

Posted in General

Choosing the right stove


Thinking of buying a new stove and can’t decide which fuel type? Worry no more, I am going to break it down for you.

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Posted in Gear Guides, Guides, Shopping Guides

Harness Happiness


Comfort, while wearing a climbing harness, is situationally relative.  If you are mainly skiing, walking or climbing on a glacier your comfort needs will be different than if you hanging on belay, or take repeated sport climbing falls.  For example, adjustable and detachable leg loops are better on a mountaineering harness, when you are changing pant layers, changing from crampons to skis, or nature calls for the squat position.  Fixed or non-detachable leg loops are lighter, less clunky, and more comfortable in the climbing gym and sport climbing.  Below are a couple of our harness that illustrate the features available for, roughly, the same amount of money.


Black Diamond Couloir Harness

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Posted in General

Crazy About Crampons

19-2_Z12 2014_Jonathan Griffith

Like scuba gear, crampons allow you to exist in places you couldn’t…without their help.  You can stand around on a 45 degree ice slope, with a cup of tea in your hand, shooting the bull with your climbing partner, with the assurance that you won’t slide off the mountain.  You can cross and climb glaciers and snow slopes, climb frozen waterfalls and scratch your way up ice crusted rock faces; all with the aid of spikes on your boots.  As with last week, I’ve picked-out a few pieces because of their diverse usage and sweet pricing.  Like most climbing equipment, crampons have become more specialized according to their use.  I’ve included representatives from the general mountaineering and technical alpine climbing catagories, leaving waterfall, mixed climbing and ski mountaineering for a winter posting.



CAMP Stalker Universal Crampons

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Posted in General

Ice Axes and Ice Tools

64_Z12 2014_Jonathan Griffith(1)

As you examine your ice axe, this spring alpine climbing season, perhaps this is the year your wish list axe becomes an actual upgrade. There are a few rusty-headed relics that I would like to retire, and bolt to the wall for good.  It’s great to keep old tools, as memories, but it is also great to get a nice crisp purchase on couloir ice.  OMCgear has some sweet deals right now, and I’ve picked a few picked tools for the spotlight.

CAMP Neve Ice Axe

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Posted in General

Mountain Hardwear Thermostatic Jacket Review


Sometimes I end up wearing a certain piece of clothing, for days, like it’s my lucky Linus blanket.  As I sit here typing in an office chair, I’m wearing the Mountain Hardwear Thermostatic Jacket, and realize that I have been wearing it almost daily (except for wash days) for months.  Resort skiing, backcountry skiing, apres skiing, it doesn’t really matter what I’m doing; I wear it because it’s comfortable in a variety of temperatures, and it fits really well.  A layering garment that has a large temperature zone sweet spot is what we’re all seeking.  Changing in and out of layers takes time away from climbing and skiing.  Bulky mid-layers are restrictive and heavy, fleece isn’t wind-proof, and goose down gets wet and doesn’t dry quickly.  The success of a jacket using thin synthetic insulation and small denier nylon shell material would seem obvious but it has taken years to perfect.
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Posted in Gear Guides, General, Guides

Off-Piste Magazine Ski Test

Ski testers get very little respect because most people don’t consider skiing work, but noting the nuanced differences between ski models takes time and effort.  And sometimes it might rain on you.  The last few days I was testing, next Fall’s alpine ski line-up, on Mt. Hood, and to put it simple “skis just get better and easier to ski”.


Dave’s garage fills up this time of year Photo: Aaron Talbot

April powder might be an oxymoron but we did have some fresh whipped cream texture that made sliding around enjoyable.  The mid-week powder hounds must have been biking or boating because the usual “gold rush” for first tracks didn’t show.  It ‘s nice to spoon you’re tracks on a fresh slope, run after run, to compare different ski characteristics, side by side.  Off-Piste magazine and Oregon Mountain Community both specialize in backcountry skiing, so our goals overlapped nicely.
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Posted in General

How Arc’teryx handles the names of their products, and why you should care.

If you aren’t familiar with the performance brand Arc’teryx, their product names might be confusing. Determining what product best suits your activity is as easy as reading the name of the product. Because Arc’yeryx names their products like a scientist might name a new animal. This taxonomy is not only the name of the product, but also a set of conditions that it was designed to be used in. To help decode the product names, here’s a handy reference guide.

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Posted in Guides Tagged with: , , ,



Part 1.

“It is hard to explain” says my Norwegian friend. “ It means, glue, or sticky… but not quite that”.  Leading him, I ask if it sort of means “ooh, don’t touch that”. He grins “yah, yah, klister means sticky, gooey, and better not to touch”.

Klister does seem to be a witch’s brew of Vaseline, honey, pine resin, and who knows what else…red dye #2, baby poo?  Best not to touch. Yet what I find most amazing about klister is that, after smoothing it onto my ski base with my warm hands, simply going skiing seems to make it disappear from my skin. And skiing on a good klister day can be fantastic, with outstanding glide and grip.  So why do so many try, as much as they can, to not use klister even when it is the obvious choice?

Klister horror stories are common.  Klister has been blamed for the invention of pattern based waxless skis, for ruining car upholstery and down jackets, creating hilarious but unintentional hair styles, and perhaps even turning people completely away from Nordic skiing. Worst of all, a bad klister day means no grip whatsoever and glide matching a snowshoe.

Tools and techniques

Like most fears, klisterphobia is most often due to misunderstanding. When to use and how much to use is an area for enlightenment, but most fear might come from the how.  Here are some tips on making the “how to” less frightening.

The best klister wax job is usually done inside a warm waxing room, but it is rare that we get access to such facilities.  Applying klister outside can be made much easier with some cool tricks.

1)      Put some painter’s tape (that easy-to-peel off blue stuff) at the ends of the ski wax pocket. If you slop over the klister a bit, it will be on the tape, not the glide zone
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